Last updated: . Updated ski-area and summit-visit distinctions, access and ticket guidance, and winter-activity safety information. Our family trip remains a past experience. Date information added October 30, 2026.
Our French Pyrenees family trip: Grand Tourmalet, Pic du Midi, and farmhouse stay · Full film (7 min 32 sec)
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We came to this new-to-us corner of France hoping to ski, and left with memories of mountain views, a farmhouse fireplace, and French food. Here is our family trip to Grand Tourmalet and Pic du Midi, with the full film and practical notes from our visit.
This landscape film combines mountain footage, portrait stories, and photographs from our trip. The contextual scenes below separate our rental, the family learning slopes, and the Pic du Midi visitor site; they are not a guide to off-piste skiing.
It’s official… we really love France. Having just completed our fifth trip there, I have to say I experience a weirdly comforting feeling when in France, almost like coming home. Perhaps it’s the climate, which feels similar to my native Colorado (or at least the mountains of Colorado), or just that we’ve declared French food as the best in the world. Whatever the reason, we know we will be back.
We came for skiing, but our days in the French Pyrenees held much more: the views from Pic du Midi, a farmhouse with room for all of us, and the food we love coming back to France for. The mountain visitor site, our family ski slopes, and the house were different parts of the trip, so I have separated those notes below.
We’ve dreamed of moving to France someday, but, after moving our family of seven to Portugal in 2021, I doubt we could put our kids through another international move. Thankfully, we plan to be in Portugal for many more years and can hop over to France in about 1.5 hrs by plane or 8-12 hours by car.
On this trip, we ventured into a new (to us) area of France – the French Pyrenees Mountains. This breathtaking mountain range separates Spain and France and boasts many enjoyable summer and winter activities.
We visited in hopes of skiing, and, though it was unseasonably warm for our trip, we still had a fantastic time on the slopes…and beyond!

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Watch our original related film on the original source
Tourmalet Pic du Midi
If, like us, you’ve never been to this area, the many names can be confusing. Little French towns are sprinkled throughout the countryside and bleed together until you reach larger cities.
We flew into Toulouse and drove about two hours to Bagnères-de-Bigorre. This locale is also about 30 minutes from Lourdes. From there, it was another 20-30 minutes to the ski slope of Grand Tourmalet. We stayed in a gorgeous remodeled farmhouse between the slopes and the little town.
This area is also relatively close to Spain and Andorra (one of the smaller European countries nestled near the border between Spain and France).
The drive from Lisbon (our hometown) to Grand Tourmalet Ski Resort is 12 hours. From Barcelona, it is 5.5 hours.

Having room to gather was a big part of this stay for our family. The house tour moves from the green valley outside to the rooms inside, including the bunkroom and the spaces that made it work for a group. The details below are from our stay; check the current layout, amenities, and availability before booking.
Our farmhouse setting and room tour · Scene from our film (40 sec)
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While many hotels are closer to the slopes, we were blessed to stay at La Grange da Ladour.
This converted French farmhouse knocked our socks off! Its owner, Savonne, purchased the farmhouse in late 2019 and spent two years during the pandemic gutting it and remodeling it into a dreamy gathering place for up to 20!
Seven bedrooms, more than 10 bathrooms, a sauna, a Swedish bath, and more await you at this cozy home. We loved the two fireplaces (one wood burning and the other an automatic pellet stove), the massive dining table for 14+, and the huge sectional and pool table.
Located just 20 minutes from the Grand Tourmalet Ski Resort, we made it up to the slopes in no time. The house even has a ski storage room for equipment safe-keeping.
We saw lots of wildlife and made a wonderful, cozy dinner in front of the fireplace while marveling at the plentiful stars in the night sky. Magical!

The Swedish bath and sauna were at our farmhouse rental, separate from Aquensis, the public thermal spa I describe later. This little moment from the house is another reminder of why the stay felt like more than a place to leave our ski bags. These are amenities from our visit, so confirm what is offered now when planning a stay.
The Swedish bath and sauna at our farmhouse rental · Scene from our film (15 sec)
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In case this house is too large for you, check out these other family-friendly options:

Known as the largest ski area in the French Pyrenees, Grand Tourmalet hosts various family attractions. Visit the traditional ski town of La Mongie at the base of the ski slopes and have cheese fondue with the best backdrop you can imagine.
After you’ve had your fill of good food, swoop up the mountains to the Pic du Midi, a mountain observatory and visitor site, which is still a base for science and tourism alike.
Pic du Midi’s freeride terrain is for experienced skiers and snowboarders. The operator describes high-mountain terrain that is unmarked, unpatrolled, and not prepared as resort pistes, and strongly recommends a mountain professional. This is a different undertaking from our family skiing on Grand Tourmalet’s learning slopes. Read the official freeride guidance and check conditions and the appropriate pass before considering it.

The covered learning conveyor and gentle slope were a different scene from the high-mountain views at Pic du Midi. This moment brings back our family ski day, even the skier in a duck costume! The lesson below was one part of helping Grace enjoy the slopes at her own level.
Our family on the learning slopes at Grand Tourmalet · Scene from our film (20 sec)
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Grand Tourmalet has a broad ski area across La Mongie and Barèges, and we loved the abundant learning slopes full of toddlers and adults alike. Runs, lifts, and open sectors can change, so use the operator’s current live map and snow information to plan each day.
Beginners benefit from several gentle slopes, and if you are hoping to brush up on skills, there are four ski schools to choose from!
Our youngest, Grace, has only skied a little, so we started her first ski day with a one-hour private lesson for 55€. This was an amazing way to set her up for success, as she ended her lesson happy and ready to try more! It was much better than anxiously trying to keep up with Mom, Dad, and siblings, who are all experienced skiers.
If sledding is on your list, ask the resort which designated areas or organized activities are available for your dates and your children’s ages. Do not treat a closed ski slope or a route from the Col du Tourmalet as an unsupervised after-hours sledding run. Check the resort’s family-activity information and confirm arrangements locally.

We love a mountain view, and Pic du Midi gave us the kind of sweeping panorama that makes you want to stop and take it all in. The visitor buildings and museum gave the kids another part of the outing to explore, while Chris and I kept looking back out at the mountains.
Pic du Midi panorama and observatory visitor buildings · Scene from our film (30 sec)
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We are suckers for a good view anywhere in the world, and the Pic du Midi more than satisfied our deep longing for amazing views of the Pyrenees.
Visitors reach Pic du Midi by cable car from La Mongie, with a change of cable cars on the way up. The summit visitor site includes panoramic spaces, a museum experience, a planetarium, and places to eat. For your dates, check the operator’s opening calendar and weather-dependent access. Sightseeing and ski products have different terms; do not assume a Grand Tourmalet ski pass includes a Pic du Midi visit. Confirm the exact ticket with N’PY before buying.
Our kids loved the histopads, which we also found at the Chambord Chateau in France. These iPads create an alternate reality view when pointed at things around the observatory, bringing history to life. These were free for the kids to use during our visit.
Our old notes listed planetarium shows as an optional extra. Check the current visit packages, session times, booking arrangements, and available languages before arriving; do not assume the same shows or an on-site place will be available.
Our kids loved exploring the museum, and Mom and Dad couldn’t get enough of the views. The restaurant was booked on the day of our visit, but it looks delicious and has its own separate, private viewing deck.
Pic du Midi offers Night at the Summit experiences. Check the operator’s current release calendar, eligibility, availability, and booking terms rather than relying on a general one-year lead time.

For snowshoeing, check current route conditions and local guidance before setting out. Ask the resort or a qualified local guide about a suitable route for your group, the equipment needed, and any closures. Snow on the ground alone does not establish that a trail is open or suitable.
Alternatively, hiking is another excellent option. A guide would be helpful to understand the area, but make sure you can get an English-speaking guide if needed. The tourism office, Tourmalet Pic du Midi, at the base of the ski slope, can help book this for you.
In warmer months, rivers and streams are plentiful. We hiked around our rental house and loved the varied and gorgeous landscapes of the area.
Additionally, in warmer months, rock climbing is very popular in this area (perhaps ice climbing is also, but we only saw rock climbers on our visit). The jagged Pyrenees peaks offer perfect rock climbing opportunities.

We started our visit with this thermal spa, and I’d happily return for several more visits. This large spa offers families wonderful relaxation and fun. Adults and teens over 15 can enjoy the sauna and Turkish Bath areas, while the younger ones can enjoy the various thermal pools, including a music pool.
Water and mint tea are provided in the Hamman area, and the locker rooms are lovely.
Towels, robes, and slippers are available for rent. Note that your timed ticket is from entry to exit, so leave enough time to shower and dress while still within your time limit.

What foods should you try in France while visiting as a family? The answer is everything! We seriously love the food there. However, some of our highlights include the following:
Baguettes. Locals grab a fresh baguette or two every day to munch on or serve with a meal. You’ll find them everywhere, from gas stations to bakeries and grocery stores, but they are hard to beat.
Cheese. France knows its cheese, and this area in the Pyrenees has many dairy farms. The selection is overwhelming! However, dip in and enjoy. It’s tough to go wrong!
Fondue. We LOVE fondue – cooking or dipping your bite-sized meal into broth, cheese, or chocolate. We particularly love cheese and chocolate fondue. We dug into a couple of fondue meals in the area and loved our lunch at the base of the Grand Tourmalet and our dinner at the Fabrique de Terroir. You’ll love dipping fresh bread and meats into creamy, melted cheese.

Raclette. Focused on melted cheese, this French way of eating is divine. Typically, a large wheel of cheese is melted and scraped onto other foods, such as cooked potatoes or meat. However, cheese can also be melted in a pan and poured over other food. This type of meal is expected in the mountains of France and is our new Christmas Eve tradition after we fell in love with it a few years ago. In fact, we have our own Raclette machine at home!
Cured Meats and Beef. Sausages abound in France, along with cured hams, salamis, and more. These are delicious with the various cheese options and fresh French bread.
Escargot. While we didn’t see this in the Pyrenees, it’s a must in France! Yes, it is cooked snails, but it’s become one of our favorite foods. The snails themselves are relatively tasteless and resemble a cooked mushroom. It’s the sauce that really counts here..a mix of garlic and parsley that is to die for. Enjoy it with fresh bread, and you’ll thank me later.
Pastries. French pastries are top-notch. Even the gas stations boast incredible, edible works of art. Savor eclairs, macarons, lemon and chocolate tarts, flaky apple pastries, and more. They are SO good.

Breakfast at Hotel La Voie Lactee. We couldn’t believe the real-life views surrounding this 4-star hotel across the street from the slopes. We loved the breakfast buffet with fresh pastries, yogurt, eggs, sausages and more.
Lunch or Dinner at Fabrique de Terrior. As I already mentioned, fondue and raclette are a must try in France (unless you are dairy-free, in which case I am really sorry!).
Eat at the local hotel. In smaller towns, restaurants are almost always connected to a hotel. Search online for good recommendations. We always like to check out Trip Advisor as well.
Eat at home. The quality of food is so good in France, we often eat it when we can. We love exploring the local grocery store and trying new things. Head to the deli counter for easier options, or grab some items for a gourmet meal at home.

Over our visits to France, we’ve learned a thing or two about visiting with kids.
France is truly a place of wonder and delight, and our visit to the French Pyrenees was no exception. We wholeheartedly recommend visiting if you are able, and bringing kids if you have them. It may be a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, but we wouldn’t be surprised if you have so much fun that you find yourself planning more visits in the future. Enjoy your journey!
Xoxo,
Leslie
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