Sweden

Seeing Northern Lights In Kiruna, Sweden And Staying In IceHotel With Kids: All You Need To Know

Northern Lights in Kiruna and Icehotel: Our Birthday Trip

Last updated: October 17, 2026. Updated aurora facts, hotel information, and trip-planning guidance. Our birthday trip remains a past experience. Date information added October 30, 2026.

My oldest daughter and I went to Kiruna, Sweden, for her birthday, hoping to see the northern lights and try a night at the Icehotel. We got both—and I came home with some mixed feelings about sleeping on ice! Here is our experience, with the photographs, snowy setting, and ice art from our trip.

Our Kiruna birthday trip and Icehotel visit · Full film (3 min 24 sec)

▶Watch full film 3 min 24 sec

This short portrait film follows our mother-daughter birthday trip. The aurora section includes photographs on a phone and our guide’s camera display; it is not continuous live footage of the northern lights.

Imagine blues, greens, and hints of red soaring across arctic night skies. The Northern Lights are enough to inspire awe and wonder in all of us. The Northern Lights, produced when charged particles interact with gases in Earth’s upper atmosphere, are on the bucket lists of most world travelers.

My oldest daughter and I just visited Kiruna, Sweden, for her birthday trip and took in these stunning, heavenly apparitions.

In addition, we stayed in the famed Icehotel, known for its ice rooms. Its ICEHOTEL 365 suites are available year-round, alongside the seasonal winter hotel and warm accommodation.

This was utterly unsponsored.  Was it all worth it?  You can read about our experience at the Ice Hotel below.

*Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. Opinions shared are my own, and I only endorse products I support. By clicking on any of the links below, I may get a small commission if you purchase at absolutely no additional charge to you. I appreciate your support.*

Watch our original related film on Vimeo

Northern Lights in The Arctic

I didn’t want to put too much hope into seeing the northern lights as I’ve heard many stories of travelers not being able to see them. Thus, I did not book an aurora tour in advance.

However, we were fortunate and scored two amazing, clear nights. The lights were surprising in their subtlety at times.  At first, they look like clouds in the night sky. When they intensify, colors do appear to the naked eye.

What Are The Northern Lights?

Auroras, or polar lights, are natural lights predominately seen in the high-latitude regions of the earth.  Here are a few facts to understand about the northern lights:

• Auroras form when energized particles collide with gases in the upper atmosphere and release light. Earth’s magnetic field guides these particles toward the polar regions. See NOAA’s aurora explanation.

• Auroras can occur throughout the year, but seeing them requires darkness. The Arctic’s bright summer nights make viewing difficult; the useful viewing season depends on the location and available darkness.

• Some people believe it has to be cold to see the Northern Lights. This myth stems from the fact that skies must be clear of cloud cover to see them, and nights without clouds tend to be colder.

• Weather is the most significant barrier to seeing the Northern Lights.  Skies must be free of clouds.  

• The Kp index ranges from 0 to 9 and describes geomagnetic activity. It can help with planning, but it is not a direct measurement of how bright or colorful the display will look from your location.

• Auroras vary in color and intensity. Their colors depend on the atmospheric gases and the energy involved, not a simple Kp cutoff. A forecast cannot promise red or purple lights to the naked eye.

• We did not hear anything during our visit.

Booking A Tour To See The Northern Lights

When we arrived in Kiruna, I looked up the prediction of seeing the polar lights on Google, and the chances were high! I then started looking for a tour.

You have many options for tours, some of which include dinner. Here are some fantastic options to consider.

• Going on a small group and want to have dinner alongside your adventure? Choose between Kiruna: Northern Lights Tour with Dinner or Abisko: Small-Group Northern Lights Tour in Swedish Lapland tours.
• Kiruna: Guided Snowmobile Tour and Northern Lights Hunt will give an authentic experience of literally chasing the Northern lights. Check the operator’s current age, driving-license, and passenger requirements before booking a snowmobile tour.

Because I waited until the last minute and we had only one good night available for a tour, I scrambled to book. For your own trip, check updated forecasts and local weather near the date, while remembering that neither can guarantee a sighting.

Our Experience Seeing The Northern Lights

The lights did not look like those bright green photographs right away! At first, my daughter and I were looking at what seemed like clouds. The photographs in this short part of our film show the difference between our phone view and our guide’s camera display. These are photographs from the outing, rather than a continuous recording of the lights moving.

Our phone view and the guide’s aurora photographs · Scene from our film (10 sec)

▶Watch scene from our film 10 sec

We worked with Mikael through the company Explore Kiruna.  

Honestly, Mikael was way more into his photography than conversation and was a bit odd. Still, he was great at finding the lights and capturing amazing pictures on his professional camera.

He picked us up at the Ice Hotel (many tour groups will not do this, so be sure to ask if you are staying there) in his minivan and drove us around for a couple of hours.  We would get out and look at the lights for 10-30 minutes at a time, take pictures, get back in the car (it gets cold fast!!), and then look elsewhere.

Is It Easy To See The Northern Lights?

On our visit, the lights were easier to notice in photographs than with our eyes at first. ESA explains that dim auroras can look white or grey to the eye while longer-exposure photographs show color. What you see varies with the display and viewing conditions.

At first, the lights looked like little more than clouds in the sky. We couldn’t see any color until they intensified, and there was a green hue.

We did not bring our camera because Chris didn’t come with us! Having a guide who could take photographs made a big difference for us. His pictures brought out colors that were much subtler when we looked up at the sky.

Note: any lights will mess with night photography. It is best to stand very still for prolonged exposure to get great photos. Young kids are not great at this, so it’s easier with older kids.

The frozen-river setting

We loved sliding around on the frozen river beside the hotel. This part of our film catches the snowy surroundings and the little ice formations up close. The hotel setting was beautiful even before we got to the ice rooms.

Snowy river and ice formations near the hotel · Scene from our film (15 sec)

▶Watch scene from our film 15 sec

Staying At The Ice Hotel: Is it Worth It?

The ice art was such a memorable part of this birthday trip. Sculpted faces, icy passageways, and rooms made from ice—there was plenty to look at! But enjoying the art and loving a night in a cold room turned out to be two different things for me. Here is a look inside before my honest thoughts about the stay below.

Inside the Icehotel’s sculpted ice rooms · Scene from our film (20 sec)

▶Watch scene from our film 20 sec

I’m on the fence about our stay at the Ice Hotel. It’s so popular, and we went in some of the off-season, so I felt like service was lacking. I think for the price I would not return.

However, it was an experience we always wanted to have, and I don’t regret going. I enjoyed staying in the “warm rooms,” basically standard hotel rooms or small cabins, much more than I enjoyed our night on the ice. They are much cheaper than a “cold night.” The ice rooms can be toured during the day, so I would skip staying in the actual ice rooms.

The setting of Kiruna is fantastic, and there are several other places to stay. However, if you are set on the Ice Hotel (like we were), enjoy the sauna and the delicious restaurant! The frozen river and winter hotel construction were part of the setting we loved. Ask the hotel which areas are open and appropriate to access during your visit; our experience on the ice is not a guide to current ice conditions.

Trip note: We used taxis for getting around. The number in my original notes was +4698012020; confirm current contact details and transport options before your trip.

How Much Does It Cost To See The Northern Lights In Kiruna?

These were my approximate budget notes from our birthday trip, in US dollars—not current quotes. Accommodation, transport, and tour prices change with dates and availability, so check your own dates before building a budget:

• Hotel/accommodations: $200-700 per night and up.

• Guided Tour: $75-200 pp, depending on if it includes dinner, snowmobiling, etc.
• Taxis around Kiruna: $40 per day or less. Many things you can walk to! Public transportation is spotty but also available and better in high seasons.

• Food: $100 pp per day. You can cut costs by going to a grocery store and cooking in.

• Overnight train from Stockholm (highly recommended!): $50-150 pp, depending on if you want a private sleeper car or a regular seat. We opted for the private sleeper car and loved it.

• Flights to Stockholm: Depends on where you come from! From Lisbon, I think they were around $400 total for us both.

• Flights Stockholm to Kiruna: $100-200 pp. This is faster than the overnight train but not as fun :). We took the train to Kiruna and flew back.

How To See Northern Lights In Kiruna On A Budget?

If you are a big family like us, you might get overwhelmed by the thought that booking a guided tour to catch the Aurora borealis is a “must.” Remember, it is your trip, and you can always choose to DIY this adventure! Even if you’re chasing the Northern Lights by only going outside the hotel, it can still be magical!

Here are some practical tips:

1. Watch Youtube camera tricks on capturing the Northern lights using your phone or DSLR.
2. Download the Aurora Alerts app. It monitors real-time auroral activity and pushes alerts to let you know if there may be aurora borealis visible tonight. Then you can head on your way!
3. Use your car to find a good (if not perfect) and safe place for your family to watch the Northern Lights (avoid stopping at night on any main roads).
4. No car? You can ask your hotel for some spots within walking distance of the hotel. 
5. Opt for lodging with a kitchenette and cook your meals in.
6. Look for free outdoor activities suited to the conditions, and check whether sauna access is included in your accommodation rate.

Other Places To Stay With Kids

If you want to explore other hotels besides the Ice Hotel, check out these options:

• SkyVillage was one of the alternatives in my original planning notes. Check its current room options, facilities, location, and any activity or spa inclusions for your dates.

• Camp Ripan was one of the alternatives in my original planning notes. Check its current room options, facilities, location, and any activity or spa inclusions for your dates.

• Best Western Hotel Arctic Eden was one of the alternatives in my original planning notes. Check its current room options, facilities, location, and any activity or spa inclusions for your dates.

Other Tips For Seeing The Northern Lights

• Know that it is freezing in the arctic in the winter. This seems obvious, but it took us a bit by surprise. We didn’t pack ski clothing, but this is what is needed. We bought more winter clothes at the local store in Kiruna, including ski pants, thick winter jackets, and more layers. Once we had the right gear, being outside was more manageable.

• I LOVED my heated gloves and socks, but the gloves had a red light that interfered a bit with the photos. You can turn the light off (when you turn off the glove).

• Have low expectations. There are no guarantees that you’ll see the lights, so take in the other joys… the crisp, cold air, the gorgeous snowy landscape, and the stars. All these are worth the trip outside, and the lights are a bonus.

• It’s easy to be caught up in the camera lens, but enjoy it without a camera! When the lights we intense and you can see them well, it’s magical.

• You can capture it with your cell phone, but it won’t be as good. Use the night exposure (or longer exposure. My iPhone offers 3- or 10 seconds of exposure).

Other Places To See Northern Lights In Europe

While considered by some as the best place in the world to see polar lights, Sweden is just one of many options in Europe.

Tromsø, Norway is another destination to research, including places such as Prestvannet. Check local darkness, weather, access, and aurora forecasts for the dates you are considering.

Northern Scotland is another possibility. A sighting depends on auroral activity, darkness, weather, and your location; a particular month cannot guarantee one.

Iceland is another northern-lights destination. Check seasonal darkness and local conditions, and ask your particular accommodation whether it offers an aurora wake-up service.

Finnish Lapland – the Arctic far north of Finland and another fabulous destination for a winter getaway. Here, you can visit the home of Santa Claus and combine the Northern Lights with Christmas Magic!

Northern lights are best enjoyed with kids. Start your plan and find the best place for your family!

Xoxo,

Leslie

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