Seeing Northern Lights In Kiruna, Sweden And Staying In IceHotel With Kids: All You Need To Know

Last Updated on April 8, 2024 by Leslie Stroud

Imagine blues, greens, and hints of red soaring across arctic night skies. The Northern Lights are enough to inspire awe and wonder in all of us. The Northern Lights, caused by solar flares hitting the atmosphere, are on the bucket lists of most world travelers.

My oldest daughter and I just visited Kiruna, Sweden, for her birthday trip and took in these stunning, heavenly apparitions.

In addition, we stayed in the famed Icehotel, the original ice hotel lodge and the only one with rooms open year-round.

This was utterly unsponsored.  Was it all worth it?  You can read about our experience at the Ice Hotel below.

*Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. Opinions shared are my own, and I only endorse products I support. By clicking on any of the links below, I may get a small commission if you purchase at absolutely no additional charge to you. I appreciate your support.*

Northern Lights in The Arctic

I didn’t want to put too much hope into seeing the northern lights as I’ve heard many stories of travelers not being able to see them. Thus, I did not book any tours for this reason.

However, we were fortunate and scored two amazing, clear nights. The lights were surprising in their subtlety at times.  At first, they look like clouds in the night sky. When they intensify, colors do appear to the naked eye.

What Are The Northern Lights?

Auroras, or polar lights, are natural lights predominately seen in the high-latitude regions of the earth.  Here are a few facts to understand about the northern lights:

• Northern Lights are solar materials hitting our atmosphere.  Due to the magnetic field around the earth, the lights are shuttled to the poles.

• Northern Lights happen nearly daily, year-round. However, they can only be seen in winter due to extended daylight in summer and vast darkness at the poles in winter months (with few exceptions).

• Some people believe it has to be cold to see the Northern Lights. This myth stems from the fact that skies must be clear of cloud cover to see them, and nights without clouds tend to be colder.

• Weather is the most significant barrier to seeing the Northern Lights.  Skies must be free of clouds.  

• Polar lights can be predicted, like the weather. The brightness is measured in the KP scale, ranging from 0-10, and most nights are between 1-4.

• The Northern Lights vary in color and intensity. They can be challenging to see at low KP levels to the naked eye. Above a 4 KP, you’ll likely see colors like red or purple. Otherwise, you’ll see a lot of green.

• Some people think you can hear the polar lights. This is possible as it is electric particles interacting in the atmosphere. However, we didn’t hear anything!

Booking A Tour To See The Northern Lights

When we arrived in Kiruna, I looked up the prediction of seeing the polar lights on Google, and the chances were high! I then started looking for a tour.

You have many options for tours, some of which include dinner. Here are some fantastic options to consider.

• Going on a small group and want to have dinner alongside your adventure? Choose between Kiruna: Northern Lights Tour with Dinner or Abisko: Small-Group Northern Lights Tour in Swedish Lapland tours.
• Kiruna: Guided Snowmobile Tour and Northern Lights Hunt will give an authentic experience of literally chasing the Northern lights. If you wish to drive a snowmobile, you must be 18 years old and have a valid driver’s license.

Because I waited until the last minute and we only had one good night to see it, I scrambled and booked a last-minute tour. Predictions can be explored even a week or two in advance, so there is no need to wait until the last minute as we did.

Our Experience Seeing The Northern Lights

We worked with Mikael through the company Explore Kiruna.  

Honestly, Mikael was way more into his photography than conversation and was a bit odd. Still, he was great at finding the lights and capturing amazing pictures on his professional camera.

He picked us up at the Ice Hotel (many tour groups will not do this, so be sure to ask if you are staying there) in his minivan and drove us around for a couple of hours.  We would get out and look at the lights for 10-30 minutes at a time, take pictures, get back in the car (it gets cold fast!!), and then look elsewhere.

Is It Easy To See The Northern Lights?

Depending on the intensity of the flare, you may or may not be able to see the lights with your naked eye. Surprisingly, it’s much easier to see the lights with a camera, even your cell phone.

At first, the lights looked like little more than clouds in the sky. We couldn’t see any color until they intensified, and there was a green hue.

Nothing beats a DSL camera. If you don’t bring your own (we did not because Chris didn’t come with us!), get a guide that will. You’ll be shocked at the difference between looking at the sky and looking at a picture of the sky.

Note: any lights will mess with night photography. It is best to stand very still for prolonged exposure to get great photos. Young kids are not great at this, so it’s easier with older kids.

Staying At The Ice Hotel: Is it Worth It?

I’m on the fence about our stay at the Ice Hotel. It’s so popular, and we went in some of the off-season, so I felt like service was making. I think for the price I would not return.

However, it was an experience we always wanted to have, and I don’t regret going. I enjoyed staying in the “warm rooms,” basically standard hotel rooms or small cabins, much more than I enjoyed our night on the ice. They are much cheaper than a “cold night.” The ice rooms can be toured during the day, so I would skip staying in the actual ice rooms.

The setting of Kiruna is fantastic, and there are several other places to stay. However, if you are set on the Ice Hotel (like we were), enjoy the sauna and the delicious restaurant! If you also go in the winter, you can walk or ski out on the frozen river and maybe catch them building the Ice Hotel itself (part of the hotel is around all year, but in the winter, they expand with temporary rooms each season).

Tip: The number for the only taxi company in Kiruna is +4698012020. Using a taxi is easy to do and all we use for transportation.

How Much Does It Cost To See The Northern Lights In Kiruna?

Depending on where you stay for your lodgings, I would plan approximately as follows:

• Hotel/accommodations: $200-700 per night and up.

• Guided Tour: $75-200 pp, depending on if it includes dinner, snowmobiling, etc.
• Taxis around Kiruna: $40 per day or less. Many things you can walk to! Public transportation is spotty but also available and better in high seasons.

• Food: $100 pp per day. You can cut costs by going to a grocery store and cooking in.

• Overnight train from Stockholm (highly recommended!): $50-150 pp, depending on if you want a private sleeper car or a regular seat. We opted for the private sleeper car and loved it.

• Fights to Stockholm: Depends on where you come from! From Lisbon, I think they were around $400 total for us both.

• Fights Stockholm to Kiruna: $100-200 pp. This is faster than the overnight train but not as fun :). We took the train to Kiruna and flew back.

How To See Northern Lights In Kiruna On A Budget?

If you are a big family like us, you might get overwhelmed by the thought that booking a guided tour to catch the Aurora borealis is a “must.” Remember, it is your trip, and you can always choose to DIY this adventure! Even if you’re chasing the Northern Lights by only going outside the hotel, it can still be magical!

Here are some practical tips:

1. Watch Youtube camera tricks on capturing the Northern lights using your phone or DSLR.
2. Download the Aurora Alerts app. It monitors real-time auroral activity and pushes alerts to let you know if there may be aurora borealis visible tonight. Then you can head on your way!
3. Use your car to find a good (if not perfect) and safe place for your family to watch the Northern Lights (avoid stopping at night on any main roads). You can also check rental cars in Kiruna.
4. No car? You can ask your hotel for some spots within walking distance of the hotel. 
5. Opt for lodging with a kitchenette and cook your meals in.
6. Go for free activities, like hiking or the sauna.

Other Places To Stay With Kids

If you want to explore other hotels besides the Ice Hotel, check out these options:

• SkyVillage will take you on real adventures. Located close to Samegården and Kiruna Folkets Hus, this place is full of exciting onsite activities like boat tours, hiking/biking, and snowshoeing.

• Camp Ripan gives you a family-friendly hotel vibe. You can get into ski slopes at this hotel, offering ski-in/ski-out access, cross-country skiing, and ski equipment rentals. Wrap up your day with a massage and a body treatment at the onsite spa. 

• Best Western Hotel Arctic Eden is located in Centrum near a train station. Treat yourself to a Swedish massage at their onsite spa, Arctic Eden.

Other Tips For Seeing The Northern Lights

• Know that it is freezing in the arctic in the winter. This seems obvious, but it took us a bit by surprise. We didn’t pack ski clothing, but this is what is needed. We bought more winter clothes at the local store in Kiruna, including ski pants, thick winter jackets, and more layers. Once we had the right gear, being outside was more manageable.

• I LOVED my heated gloves and socks, but the gloves had a red light that interfered a bit with the photos. You can turn the light off (when you turn off the glove).

• Have low expectations. There are no guarantees that you’ll see the lights, so take in the other joys… the crisp, cold air, the gorgeous snowy landscape, and the stars. All these are worth the trip outside, and the lights are a bonus.

• It’s easy to be caught up in the camera lens, but enjoy it without a camera! When the lights we intense and you can see them well, it’s magical.

• You can capture it with your cell phone, but it won’t be as good. Use the night exposure (or longer exposure. My iPhone offers 3- or 10 seconds of exposure).

Other Places To See Northern Lights In Europe

While considered by some as the best place in the world to see polar lights, Sweden is just one of many options in Europe.

Tromsø, Norway – the best time to see the Northern Lights in Tromsø is from mid-September to April, but if you want higher chances, it’s probably best to come between October and March. Are you looking for the best spot for your Nothern lights adventure? Check out Prestvannet. Located right in the middle of Tromsø. This small lake is at the highest point of Tromsø island and is the top choice for most locals and visiting aurora chasers.

Northern Scotland – auroras are most likely to be seen in Scotland between mid-October and mid-March. You may want to avoid times when there will be a full moon for a higher chance of getting the best experience.

Iceland – Northern lights season in Iceland is from September to April. Aurora can often be seen over the capital and other towns. Most hotels in Iceland offer a unique Northern Lights wake-up service, so if lights happen to appear, they will let you know.

Finnish Lapland – the Arctic far north of Finland and another fabulous destination for a winter getaway. Here, you can visit the home of Santa Claus and combine the Northern Lights with Christmas Magic!

Northern lights are best enjoyed with kids. Start your plan and find the best place for your family!

Xoxo,

Leslie

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